As The Grapes Disappear

Another terrific ride today leading a bike tour for I Bike Italy with the fun group pictured here from the midwest U.S.

Every day, every group, every mile has something new to offer. Spending a whole day riding, teaching, guiding, dining and socializing with such interesting and happy people is deeply fulfilling.

The landscape is changing every day. The lush green grapevines are drying out. You can smell wine fermenting in the air for miles, but it is hard to find a vineyard whose grapes have not yet been picked. I was fortunate to find perhaps the last one today, and pulled off the road with my group to share with them the beautiful bounty of the harvest, partaking in their joy of eating the grapes off the vine and watching them them marveling and taking photos in awe. I feel very lucky to have found my destiny making people happy and sharing the beauty of Tuscany with them. I could not ask for more.

I am constantly pinching myself to convince myself this is really real. Leading them, pointing out in the distance such sights as the house where Machiavelli wrote "The Prince" and the villa where Da Vinci painted the Mona Lisa.....what a dream come true.

The skies are getting cloudy and I am now wearing longer pants. Being out in the open air every day, spending so much time in the saddle, I have become one with the earth, one with Tuscany. My heart beats in cadence with the land. I feel sewn together with everything that is Tuscany. It is a tremendous feeling of peace and harmony. I guess you could call it heaven.

The Essence of Tuscany... La Vendemmia in Bicicletta!

La Vendemmia. The harvest crush is in full swing. For the past month I have been ecstatically guiding single and multi-day bike tours during this most magical time of year, the season of the grape harvest. Tuscan viticulture has reached its most critical moment as the landscape explodes with abundant new life, giving birth to its precious, plump, pregnant purple fruit, which is now being picked, fermented, and transported throughout the narrow country lanes where my clients and I are pedaling and flying high on the sights, the vistas, the heady aroma of wine fermenting in the air, and the energy ignited by this annual ritual that brings all of Tuscany alive!

What an experience for the cyclist! I cannot imagine a better way of breathing and experiencing the vendemmia. There are endless harvest activities in which to participate and observe while on the road. The entire countryside is alive. Each Chianti town is connected by one pervasive party celebrating the activities of the harvest, creating an evocative electricity in the air! As we ride our bicycles through the mystical Tuscan landcape, we get stuck behind miniature Tonka sized tractors, trucks and tankers transporting newly picked grapes to the wineries and skins to the grappa distilleries. We hunt for vineyards that have not yet been harvested and pull off the road to eat the grapes straight off the vine. What an earthy way to immerse ourselves in this experience while enjoying challenging rides through climbs like Testalepre. Tuscany's hills are not as gentle as they appear from photos.....attention cyclists....they are relentlessly hilly, infinitely picturesque, laden with visions that seem straight out of a dream.

We pass through the heart of Chianti Classico region, enjoying wine festivals in Panzano, Greve, and today we arrived just in time to be entertained by the dramatic festivities, parades, dancing and wine tastings taking place as we passed through Impruneta! We sang and danced in the middle of the piazza along with a few thousand participants. This was one of numerous unexpected spontaneous surprises on this weekend's tour.

Yesterday was the first time that I actually gave the wine and olive oil production tour at the Le Corti Wine Estate, after studying and practicing for a month. A whole new learning experience, helping me to melt deeper and deeper into the fabric of the culture. I have learned so much and feel very fortunate to be able to share the excitement of Tuscany on bike while enjoying the many pleasures of its food, wine and festivities together.

I am a contagious person and get great satisfaction out of watching my fever spread to others who feed on my passion. I feel very thankful to be living out my Italian dream, having found my natural abode, and living now in the culture that has begged me to come live in its arms.

In another week or two, all the grapes will be gone, and the atmosphere will change, as the vines start turing golden and red. But then a new season begins with chestnut festivals and the raccolta of the olives. So many unique faces of Tuscany. Each season has something very special to offer. The cycle goes on, making Tuscany perhaps the most dynamic region of Italy.

Vive le Donne

A sweet group of women on today's tour made this a great day of sightseeing and cycling to the Le Corti wine estate in San Casciano. An unexpected downpour on the way back after our gelato was a real bonding experience. I love being a part of people's vacation memories in Italy.

A Weekend of Riding

Great turnout for yesterday’s ride….now that many have returned from their August vacations. We enjoyed a splendid climb up to Vinci and San Baronto and got some good paceline speed going on the way back on the flats. It was a long ride, which got us home later than usual, so we had a chance to ride in Saturday traffic, which is more fun in Italy than in New York City!

It’s taken a while for me to “understand” the traffic flows and driving behaviors of the Italians, but once you get the hang of the non-rules of the road and get to trust their exceptional skills, it becomes one clockwork machine that just works like organized chaos. Italian drivers might appear a riotous cult, but on the contrary, they are fast and noisy, but sharp, synched and adept, making cycling a pleasure here. Italian motorists are accustomed to and respectful of sharing the road with cyclists, it has never been an issue. Well, maybe in Napoli. It is such a pleasurable feeling of freedom that adds to the joy of cycling here.

That was yesterday and today is Sunday. Today I was supposed to join my team again for an encore ride, but despite being the hopeless groupie that I am, this morning I couldn’t resist the urge to ride solo up to my favorite place, Monte Senario. So close in distance but so far away from anything of the physical world. Sacred, serene, lots of climbing, first up the steep ascent to Fiesole and finally from Bvigliano up the steep (last kilometer reaches 17%) road to the most heavenly sanctuary in the northern hills of Florence. It is so special because it is so unreachable to anybody who isn’t either insane or athletically inclined. No wonder the 13th century monks settled here, but they must have existed on nothing but berries, pine nuts and chestnuts. Riding to Monte Senario makes me high for a week. Past wildflowers, vineyards, under cypress and chestnut trees, cool and breezy at the higher elevations, a pre-Alpine feel. Like ascending into heaven.

Today my legs were on fire. I paced myself up to Fiesole but then exploded like a stallion breaking loose at the Palio. The stunning scenery looks different every single time I see it. The colors were exceptionally sharp and clear today, the dimension profound. The intense perfume of pine permeated the air. Wild flowers cascaded from the cracks of century old stone walls and raspberries overflowed on the sides of the roads. The first chestnuts were beginning to fall, with their spiny green skins intact, not yet mature, but definitely a sign that autumn is arriving.

One of the reasons why I wanted to ride to Monte Senario today was because I recently learned that this was also the temporary home of Pietro Annigoni, a renowned 20th century Florentine artist who lived right here in my apartment during the height of his career. In fact, the very bedroom where I sleep was his art studio in which he painted his famous portraits of Queen Elizabeth and Pope John XXIII. When he lived with the monks on Monte Senario, he painted frescos in its church. Although I have visited the church many times before, I only discovered recently that he painted frescos here. I wanted to make a special trip not only because I love riding up there, but to see the frescoes that he painted in 1985. They were a little too "Caravaggio" for my liking. He did a better job painting his queens and popes.

After visiting the church, studying the frescos and getting lost in the mountain vistas, I wanted to climb some more rather than coasting back to Florence. I was feeling too good to allow the day to end. So instead, I downed a panino in Bvigliano and took an undulating backroad to Polcanto before climbing back up towards Vaglia. By then I was ready for the thrilling descent back to Florence, where I stopped in one of my favorite churches, right near my apartment to say a prayer of thanks. Gazing above the altar, two cherubs were waving down at me, as if to cheer me on.

As Summer Fades Away....

I am sitting on the wall of the Arno at dusk, tranquil and thinking about how the the summer is fading away. For the last few weeks I’ve been enjoying the tranquility of an absent Florence population, as many residents have been on vacation, most of the neighborhood shops have been closed, the market was empty, the post office had limited hours and the pharmacy wouldn’t make any appointments.

But as compared to last year, there have been many more tourists flocking the major piazzas. It feels so much better this way, because last year the poor American economy had a somber effect on Florentine business. This year the merchants who did stay open were pleased with the increase in tourism.

Now, residents are starting to return from their vacations with deep dark tans, the passé way we used to tan ourselves in New York. They are happier than you ever see them. They smile at you in a way that they don’t smile in the winter. My piazza, which is about 5 yards from my house is starting to get lively again. Soon Giovanni will return from his month in Sicily to sell flowers in my piazza again, bringing my piazza back to life. How he makes the whole neighborhood happy! He is the "mayor" so-to-speak, of the piazza!

The merchants in the outdoor market are back, aggressively offering bargain prices, free bunches of basil and parsley, in hopes of stimulating their business again after their long absence. I am starting to see figs in the market and my favorite Claudia plums are now as sweet as they get. Fish is on sale because people are not thinking fish anymore. They are starting to think autumn. They are thinking of mushrooms, apples, and berries.
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The grapes are starting to burst on the vines. It is beautiful, but it means that the summer is coming to an end. The olive trees are bearing hard baby olives. You can even see fields of autumn squash starting to bloom. The plum trees are spilling their fruit. Last Saturday I rode with my squad and when we reached the top of the climb to La Panca, the guys on the team were waiting for me at the top offering me a handful of plums that they picked off a tree!
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The mosquitoes are disappearing and the moths are reappearing. The motorini and noise is increasing. You hear laughs, cries, motors, ambluences, church bells and motorcycles all at the same time. A charming chaos. Florence is coming alive again, after a few weeks of closed stores and a lack of services. International students are starting to fill the streets again, getting ready to start their junior year abroad. This week the tourists started to disappear, as they are all going back home to get their kids ready for school.
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The days are getting shorter and I am sad that there are only a few weeks of summer left. I don’t want it to end. I don’t want to sleep because I want to live every minute that I can and soak this all in before its gone. I am so grateful that I have my health, that I have people and friends who love me, and that I have Florence.
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I still think a lot of my friends in Southern California and New York and miss them and hope they don’t think I have forgotten them. I am trying to keep in touch and recently joined Facebook and put my blog out publically, to make sure that I keep connected with people that I love and miss.

Special Tuscan Treats Along The Road

I have been spending many delightful days this week guiding bike tours in the Tuscan hills of Florence with happy cyclists, soaking in and sharing the very best delights of Tuscany. With stops along the way to tell stories of the landscape, its history, its culture, its castles. Each stop is a special moment. The scenery changes daily with the progression of the season, so there are always new surprises to discover, making every day a unique adventure. There is simply no better way to experience Tuscany than on a bike, and I feel very lucky to be able to enjoy this pleasure along with happy clients as we tour the always pregnant back roads of the Tuscan countryside. So many of my clients say that this ride has been the highlight of their trip to Italy, and it feels great to know that I made it happen for them.

This week the Sangiovese grapes are starting to explode with spectacular color, adding delightful and sensual dimension to the vineyards as they start to ripen up in anticipation of the approaching vendemmia (grape harvest). I have been making stops to pick and taste the grapes right off the vine on the side of the road with my groups. They are growing more abundant and tasting sweeter and more pungent every day. The clients get a real kick out of this, because for many, it is the first time they have seen a Tuscan vineyard. And I get the double pleasure of getting a kick out of it myself, and getting a kick out of them getting a kick out it!

This week was chock full of natural surprises along the road. On yesterday’s ride we also rode past apple, peach and plum orchards, and……..

…..While guiding my group along a hilly shaded road, I unexpectedly sighted a large porcini mushroom growing in the woods all by itself in the middle of nowhere. I signaled the group to stop their bikes. I dropped my bike to the ground and climbed up the hill. I picked the mushroom and brought it down to my group. It was the size of a small eggplant and its smell was so intense, you could smell it from yards away. The group was drooling with excitement at the find. I cleaned it off, broke it into pieces and we shared it on the side of the road. We only wished for a bowl of tagliatelle to accompany it. If that was not enough, a few kilometers further down the road, I saw vines of blue and red raspberries growing up the trunk of a cypress tree, so we stopped for yet another tasting, and the berries were super sweet!! I also stopped to show them what a bay leaf bush looks like. At the Le Corti winery where we had lunch, capers were spilling out of the stone walls surrounding the villa.

These are the special, priceless gifts that make the Tuscan experience come alive for everyone in a very sensual way. And in the spring and autumn there are other equally thrilling gifts of nature to share, such as sunflower fields and olive trees ready to spill their fruit, the Pini (pine nut trees) and chestnut tress dropping their cones and nuts to the ground.

As I leave the quiet peaceful Tuscan countryside, I return to Florence after a day working on my bike. As I approach Florence, the sounds change as I transition from country to city. The contrast is sensational. I cycle through the city wall of Porta Romana into the traffic as I start getting pumped by the energy of the city. I cross the Ponte Vecchio and pause along the Arno to absorb the sights and sounds of Florence welcoming me back into its arms. I gaze at the image of tourists strolling in awe. I hear the buzz of motorcycles scooting around. I see the colorful reflections of light shimmering on the Arno. I thank God for a great day and the opportunity to share it with others.

Walls of San Casciano

A New Job

I recently sent my resume to one of the popular bike tour companies in Florence, and was hired to lead their Chianti Tours. I’m already noticing that everyone knows everyone in this business and I am beginning to know them too. As an independent tour guide, I can work for any or all of them, it just takes careful booking. After spending 5 days training on the course of their Chianti Tour, I will take the helm on Monday.

The tour I will be leading for I Bike Italy follows a specific course which takes us along sprawling vineyards, olive groves, cypress trees and medieval hilltop towns surrounded by an undulating Tuscan landscape. Our destination in San Casciano, is Fattoria Le Corti , a prominent producer of 3 Sangiovese wines, 2 of which are Chianti Classico. The fattoria also produces olive oil, using modern milling equipment.

After cycling through bucolic Tuscan backroads with our guests, we arrive at the fattoria to tour the cantina and orciaia (wine and olive cellars) to learn the techniques of their wine and olive oil production, aging, storing and bottling. In addition to guiding the cycling part, I am studying and learning how to conduct the wine and olive oil tours. It is a great opportunity for me to learn more about 2 products that are basic to Tuscany’s culture, economy and everyday conversation.

We then enjoy a Tuscan lunch at the cantina, accompanied by a wine and olive oil tasting. After refueling, we get back on the bikes and head back to the start point while enjoying exciting panoramas of Florence in the distance.

I am lucky to be doing work that allows me to bring people together, make them marvel, and to be a part of the memory of their vacation in Florence, by engaging them in my greatest passions, cycling and the Italian culture. In comparison to the many years I worked on Wall Street, this is such a delicious contrast. I loved both jobs but in a different ways.

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Cycling under the Tuscan sun, vineyards, wine, olive oil....great company...everyone smiling and marveling. It doesn't get better than this.

Today was my father’s birthday. He would have been 82 years old. As I rode through the magical Tuscan landscape, I thought of him and wondered what he would have thought of my destiny in Italy. A chill went through me as I felt him smiling down on me.

Under an Olive Tree at Bardini Garden

I wanted to lounge under an olive tree today, because it was a tranquil lazy summer Saturday., The city is empty and quiet because everyone is "al mare". I love August in Florence because I feel like I have the city to myself. So I decided to go to my favorite wine bar, all'Antico Vinaio, for lunch, and then to The Bardini Garden, one of the many destinations on my "to visit" list.

While first enjoying a salami sandwich and a glass of Chianti, I got into a conversation with another patron, who gave me a recipe for spaghetti and speck, a Tuscan peasant pasta dish, which I can't wait to try! Then I headed up to the Garden for a delightful surprise.

There I discovered another jewel in Florence's necklace, juxtaposed high above the city behind the Bardini Museum, sandwiched between the city's medieval walls. If I ever were to own a villa, this is where it would be! The surprise panoramas at every angle were a sheer visual and sensual delight. In comparison to the Boboli Gardens, these gardens are not as expansive, but much more cozy. And unlike the Boboli Gardens, these gardens have a very ecclectic mix of sculptures ranging from ancient to contemporary, offering many scenic contrasts and a welcome relief from the antiquity that dominates the feel of Florence.

I didn't pay much attention to all the history, except to know that the gardens have been vastly restored after having been closed to the public for many years, and the original gardens contained acqueducts dating back to medieval times, which are now being used to display a vast array of fountains and waterfalls throughout the gardens.

Today, I was more interested in lazing under an olive tree rather than being distracted by all the historic details, because with all the history in Florence, it is easy to get overwhelmed and not see the big picture. So I spread out my yoga mat in an olive grove with a spectacular view of the city, listened to my favorite Italian music on my IPod, got lost in the serenity and thanked God for letting me do this

Little Things That Mean Alot

Today I received this postcard in the mail. It is from Nicola, whose family has become family to me. He just spent a week in Germany to see Richard Wagner's Ring Cycle. An exclusive opportunity for which he had to be on a waiting list for 10 years. Knowing how much I love opera, Nicola sent me this postcard from Germany while he was there.

Little things like this make me happy to have found my new life and new friends like Nicola here in Italy.

Bike Tour Abetone

Another day guiding a private custom luxury bike tour with our clients from Chicago, riding along the course of the Gran Fondo Prato-Abetone, a magnificent climb in the mountains north of Lucca. After dropping off our clients at their villa in Lucca, Dominick ( the owner of Best Tuscan Tours), Roberto (owner of the van service), and Paulo (the other tour guide) and I chatted and found a local trattoria where we lunched over spaghetti together. As we continued on to Florence, Dominick asked me if I could guide a 5-day tour in Siena and a 1 day tour in Chianti. Va bene!!!!

Days Like This are a Gift

There are so many endless gifts to behold in Florence, it would take a lifetime to appreciate and see them all. Last week I became a member of the Amici degli Uffizi, which provides me with unlimited access to the museums in Florence. And I don't have to wait in the tourist lines. When I purchased my annual passs I wondered which museum I should see first. It was such a beautiful day today, that I decided to go to the Palazzo Pitti Boboli Gardens and headed there on my bike in the late afternoon, to avoid the mid-day sun. I had never toured the gardens before, except to see the opera a couple of times, which only allows you to see a small area of the gardens.

As I approached the entrance of Palazzo Pitti there were hundreds of people waiting in line and I just walked up front and showed my pass. Upon entering the garden gates, I was immediately stunned by the enormity and splendor that I was beholding in front of me. As I started my passeggiata I soon realized that I have found my Central Park in Florence, a place where I can escape to enjoy the serentiy while taking in such classic history displayed in the sculptures and fountains that lace these magnificent gardens.

I could never compete with the hundreds of writers who have described the splendor of these gardens. It has all been said before. But at every angle, at every step, at every turn there was a new and striking vista to behold, a new piece of history to absorb. I took so many photos, that my battery was fully spent within a short time.

Before I realized it, 3 hours had already passed and I had just skimmed the surface. There was so much more to see and it was closing time. Like Central Park, Boboli is not a place to "see" but to "live in". I'll be coming back often to stroll, to connect with nature and to appreciate the history behind the glorious sculptures.

I discovered that the Nettuno della Fontana dell'Oceano at the Isolotto is a copy of the original crafted by Giambologna, now at the Bargello. I am starting to appreciate Giambologna's style more and more as I see his works in other parts of Florence, such as Orsanmichele, Piazza Signoria and Piazza San Marco. The first time I went to the Bargello, I didn't know who Giambologna was, so when I saw the original Nettuno, I couldn't fully appreciate it. But now that I have seen the Nettuno where it originally stood, it has a new meaning to me. I will have to go back to the Bargello and look at the original again to appreciate it even more.

Upon leaving the gardens, I could hear the sweet sounds of a baritone singing a Verdi aria in the distance. As I followed the stunning voice, I was delighted to discover that a free operatic concert was just begiining in the Grotta del Buontalenti., one of Giovanni Battista's masterpieces. What a thrilling and spontaneous surprise. The concert featured a baritone, a tenor, a bass, a mezzo and a soprano, who were part of a Korean opera company on tour in Italy. The voices were so outstanding and I enjoyed an absolutely delightful evening that I will never forget. Days like this are a gift.

A Tough Ride

Today I had a very vigorous ride through Vallombrosa and Passo della Consuma with Rebecca. The amout of climbing was alot for such a warm day, but the vistas were phenomenal. We stopped to fill our water bottles at the benedictine monastery at Abbazia di Vallombrosa where a concert was playing in the church. And then on to climb through a towering, refreshing pine forest until we reached the Passo della Consuma. It was a very hard but satisfying climb and it was a new destination for me.

Back to Work Again on the Bike!

Today I led my first bike tour since arriving back in Florence and it felt great to really be "back"! The clients flew in from Chicago on their private jet to spend 2 weeks in Italy, and today was one of 3 days that we will be escorting them through the countryside on their bikes. I met Dominick and the team in the early morn and we shuttled to Lucca, where we picked up our guests at their private villa. Our ride began in Viarreggio where we started pedaling along the coast to Forte dei Marmi. We then ascended inland to Camaiore and Pedona to Bargecchia and Casella along the same route of the Gran Fondo Versilia. It was awesome.

I was amazed at how far I have come in only 6 weeks back on my bike, after 5 months off the bike and after recovering from major surgery. It is surely driven by the passion within and this great love I have for life.

I was in my element today. Entertaining and equally being entertained by the great company, sharing my passion with others, while cycling along a challenging course and just being thankful for being able to return to my life here in Italy.

Rocky Horror Picture Show at Day's End

Where else but in Florence could I experience a day filled with such diverse activities as today? In the morning I met Massa and Natascia for a dramatic 80K bike ride to Borgo San Lorenzo. After climbing up to Bvigliano we stopped for a caffè. The church bells echoed through the town as Sunday Mass was emptying out and we watched the local parishoners chatting in front of the pasticerria (bakery) or standing in line at the salumeria (a store that sells salami, prosciutto and other cured meats.) We then continued along hilly roads lined with golden fields of sunflowers, bales of hay and old stone farmhouses. This would be the last time I would see Natascia until September, since almost everyone who doesn't live on the coast is leaving the interior of the country for the month of August. Most of them are going al mare (the ocean) but le montagne (the mountains) are becoming a more popular summer destination among Italians, especially the Dolomites.

On my way back home, I stoped at a small truck selling Sicilain tomatoes, porcini and sunflowers. I loaded my jersey pockets with the pomidori (tomatoes) and then passed by the forno (bread bakery) where you could smell the bread baking from up the street. Then to the lampredotto stand (like a hotdog stand in New York, selling Florentine peasant dishes) where I bought a portion of "bolito misto", (a Tuscan specialty comprising cow by-products mixed in a light salad of onions, olive oil, lemon and parsely) Then stopped at the pizzicheria and bought some just-made buffalo mozzarella. When I got home, I picked some fresh basil from my terrace, and munched out on a great lunch!

After a piccolo riposino (short nap) I did some studying and watched the local news and then took my books and pedaled to Boboli Gardens where I sat in the cool shade under an umbrella of aromatic cypress trees.

Just before sunset I rode my everyday city bike over to the Arno where a full moon was rising above the tower of Piazza Poggi (photo above). I then rode on to Ponte Vecchio and paused for a while to listen to the guitarist who plays every night on the bridge. A cool breeze filled the air. Perfect night. I then passed by Piazzza Signoria to observe my city hall where another guitarist was entertaining the crowds in front of the Ufizzi Palace.

Then, while pedaling towards the Duomo, I heard the Calcio Storico band playing and realized that today is the Festa di Sant'Anna (which means the Feast Day of the Mother of the Virgin Mary). The nuns never taught us about her in Catholic School, which I attended until I was 20 years old. There are so many saints in Italy. There is a saint for everything and everyone. I never even "thunk" of the mother of Mary, but I guess it makes sense that she had to be a saint too, no? So, the entire ecclesiatica and government of Florence was involved very seriously in this annual celebration, all of the traditional Florentine festivities, right down to the colorful 15th century costumes, a parade and a Mass at Orsanmichele. I attended the Mass (mind you, this is all going on at 10 o'clock at night) and was thrilled to see the mayor of Florence (who I absolutely adore.....he is doing great things for this city) addressing the congregation.

In America we believe in the separation of church and state. The longer I live, the more I realize how unique America is in that regard, a real sign of freedom. In America you would never see Mayor Bloomberg giving a speech at Saint Patrick's Cathedral, speaking to the congregation as if they represented all of New York City. Here the Catholic Church IS the state, no matter what they tell you. I feel comfotable with this only because I really love my religion and I really love Italy, and feel very intertwined with the two cultures.

I know this all sounds like a week's worth of activity, but there's more. I took another giro around Piazza Santa Croce, to see the moon now reaching far above the chiesa, much higher in the sky than it was a couple of hours ago. I followed noises in the distance which led me to Florence's outdoor summer movie festival. It was midnight, and The Rocky Horror Picture Show had just begun, dubbed in Italian!! I bought a glass of wine, sat at a table up front and needless to say, I learned many suggestive idiomatic ways to speak Italian.

What a treat of a day. There is nothing much more that I could want. As I rode home, past the jazz band playing at Piazza del Ciompi, I kept on thinking that God must really have wanted me to be here. He delivered me back here after a major illness, and He keeps on reminding me that He wants me here. I am very fortunate and will never take this all for granted.

When I got home I checked my telephone to find an SMS from Dominick, saying that he needs me to guide a bike tour in Lucca on Wednesday.

Great day.

Don Giovanni at Boboli Gardens

Tonight I treated myself to see Mozart's Don Giovanni, which was performed at the stunning Boboli Gardens, under an almost full moon. I knew from last year's performance of Aida, that the best seats get sold out right away, and so I purchased my seat well in advance and was fortunate to get the seat of my choice.

As the production lights started to dim under the summer's evening sky signaling that the opera was about to begin, the audience gradually quieted down as the orchestra fine-tuned their instruments for one last time before the prelude.

I always love these last few mystical minutes before an opera begins. It is a time of transition between reality and fantasy. One becomes anesthesized while gradually disconecting from the immediate world. The audience slowly stops socializing and chatting, everyone settles down, the violins play odd notes, creating a mystical and ethereal mood as everyone settles into a state of suspended animation. After a minute or so there is a dead silence. It is the calm before the storm. Everyone's eyes are glued to the orchestra pit, anticipating the conductor's entrance. We are no longer "here now" but floating somewhere in a spiritual dimension outside of the body. A minute more of dead silence. You can hear a pin drop, but underneath you can feel the energy about to explode under the skin of every spectator awaiting the first note of music. And then the passion begins.

Experiencing these special moments under the backdrop of the Boboli Gardens is sacred. But living in Florence seems to be filled with these chilling experiences all the time. If I had the time to write about each one of them, I would be writing around the clock.

It was an excellent performance. Learning and appreciating the opera was a part of my early upbringing, and so I've loved it all my life. But being here, living here in Florence and being able to hop on my city bike in a summer dress and pretty heels on a summer's eve, to pedal a few minutes to Boboli to enjoy such a fine production among such a fashionable and animated Florentine audience gives me just another reason to feel fortunate and happy to have found a new life here.

"Recognizing the power to create your reality is the key to turning the page and beginning a new chapter in your life story. You begin to dance with the energies of life, allowing the ebb and flow to determine the direction."

Advisor to the Board?

Today I was caught by surprise when a representative of Florence by Bike asked me if I would run for a new position as an advisor to the board of directors of the team. In this capacity I would represent le donne, the women on the team, as well as serving as a point of reference for foreigners newly situated in Florence who are interested in joining the team. The proposal for this "position" will be presented to the board for their votes at the annual elections meeting in September.

I was honored and pleased. It may sound simple, it may sound elementary. It is only a bike team. But for me, it is a significant milestone that marks another root that I have planted into the Florentine earth.

It made me contemplate the tremendous capacity we have as human beings to recover from traumas and illnesses, and it made me think of how when you really have a passion that comes from deep inside of you, that nothing can really set you back.

After being incapacitated with a serious illness and off the bike for 5 months, I am miraculously recovered and my passion for life more brilliant than ever. My life in Italy is back as though it was never interrupted. I am riding right in there again with my team of Italian cycling companions who share this terrific passion for life on two wheels. I am hard at work trying to recruit new women onto the team. I am getting offers to start guiding tours again.

I am fired up and starting to develop a more strategic plan for my future life in Italy. This is only a small step, but one that propels my passion even more.

Raduno Giro dei Castelli

The first raduno of my comeback with 10 members of the squad, a giro starting in Signa which took us 105k through Montelupo, Montespertoli, and up the climb through Vitolini, a stage featured in the 2004 Giro d'Italia.

We won third place in this raduno for our placement as a team. Our prize was a beautiful trophy, a prosciutto, a finnochiana, a bottle of wine, a bottle of olive oil and a basket of pasta.

Great company and a special sense of fulfillment, this having been the first significant ride with my team since recovering from my surgery.

We enjoyed a buonissima festa at the end of the ride, and in addition to our team prize, we each received a complimentary bottle of wine to take home in our jersey pockets.

Girl's Reunion Ride

A great "welcome back" ride with the girls today! We rode up to Bviglano where we stopped at the pasticerria for a chat and a caffè, and then continued up to Lake Bilancio. Somehow I made it back after 88k and 1270 meters of climb. It was hot and very difficult for me because it was my first hilly ride in the heat so soon after my surgery. But Rebecca took good care of me and patiently waited for me on the top of every hill. I am so happy to be back again with great friends!

First Day Back on the Bike!

Today was the first time since my surgery that I rode my bike again. It was an important day for me, as it marked my recovery! I was lucky to share it with my best friend in Florence, Leif.

Since I arrived in Florence two years ago, Leif has been a great support, he has taken me all over Tuscany on our bikes to teach me the roads and the ropes of tour guiding, and he recruited me to guide tours in Tuscany.

Being my first time on the road again, we did a flat ride through the city streets to Parco delle Cascine, where we did several easy laps together and then stopped at a lampredotto stand for paninni!

Thanks, Leif!

The Swallows Singing Out My Window, Welcoming me Home!

One of the numerous things I love about Florence are the swallows that arrive here every spring and depart when the weather gets too hot. They are beautiful birds that nest in the eaves of the teracotta rooftops in Florence. They sing outside my window, where they live, and wake me up every morning at 7am. Then they dance and sing for about 2 hours, and off they go to the Arno River to eat the mosquitos. Everything is silent until they return at dusk, when they rejoice, having spent the day enjoying their festa.This year, the swallows returned to Florence before I did. It was such a delight to be welcomed home by their singing and their happy dances in the air.

Welcome Back!

Today Nicola and his family came into Florence to visit me and to welcome me back into my home. I couldn't wait to see them, and invited them over for lunch.

Nicola is my landlord. He and his family have become precious friends and supporters. Without him, I could not have obtained my legal residence in Florence (he jumped through hoops to respresent me at City Hall last year) I have spent time at their homes in San Casciano and Siena. They have treated me well. During my illness in California, they helped me to sublet my apartment in order to make it possible for me to return. They took care of everything and managed everything, right down to the laundry.

We had a splendid reunion. Nicola brought flowers. Nicoletta brought her famous Tiramisu. Cesare brought 2 bottles of Chianti. The children, Cosimo and Costanza brought their artistic creations on paper. Additionally, they brought me three giant sacks of crisp, clean linens, sheets and towels that Nicoletta laundered for me while I was absent.

I made an easy meal of insalata di fagioli, zucchini crudo al'olio di tartuffe, insalata mista, salami, prosciutto, and pane. The kids loved the clothes that I brought back for them from Abercrombie and Fitch, and they fit perfectly! We had a blast. I am happy to be back home.

Back in Florence

When I left Florence in January to visit my old life in California, little did I know that I would not return for 4 months.

Shortly upon arriving in the states, I had a sudden and unprecedented attack of abdominal pain during which my sigmoid colon became perforated, causing a toxic leak and an abscess that almost killed me.

Diagnosis: Diverticulitis probably caused over the years from a combination of stress and poor eating habits. My visit was transformed into a physical nightmare. My life was suspended into a holding pattern. I was told that I had to have my sigmoid colon removed. Major surgery. It could take months before the surgery could be performed.

The doctors did not want me to go back to Italy in the meantime. They felt it was too risky. I needed to be under their close observation, since I was vulnerable to having another sudden, but this time, fatal attack. They wanted me to wait 4 months to have the surgery, because I had to recover from the infection before surgery could be performed. Recovery would be arduous. My life was changing....perhaps I wiould never ride a bike again.

Would Florence wait for me? Would my life in Italy go up in smoke? Could I keep my apartment, my job, my friends if I were to be held up in the states with a major illness? Was my Italian dream blowing up?

Four months later I am sitting here in my charming and cozy Florentine living room, gazing out the window at the mesmerizing cupola del Duomo, watching the swallows coming home to nest. They are singing in joy as though to welcome me back. I have been recovering from my surgery for a month now, and I am getting stronger every day. The 18 hour flight was difficult. But it feels terrific to feel the energy of Florence all around me, and to know that God delivered me back here safe and sound.

Withdrawal Pains

The holidays are over and just when everyone is returning from their mini-vacations, I am about to leave for my trip to the States. It has been 9 months since I've been on American soil and I am gearing up again to face the hard transition and culture shock.

This week, while packing my bags and getting ready for my trip, I am feeling like I am living in a temporary gray area. I am not really in Florence because I am thinking of what it's going to be like in California. And I am not in California. I don't like this gray area, because I am neither here nor there. I have mixed feelings.

Florence has been rainy and dark for the past several weeks. Having lived in California for 5 years, I realized how much the sun has an invigorating effect upon the mind and the spirit. I realize that I am abandoning Florence during the most uncomfortable and uninteresting time of the year, and I feel a little guilty for this, because I feel like I am not being faithful to Florence in good times and bad. Instead I am escaping to the sun where I can drive my car for long distances along the Pacific Ocean , lay back in jeans and sandals, get my nails manicured every week, and ride my bike all day long. Well, of course I have other more important things that I have to do, but it is indeed a liberating feeling to know that I can detox in California and get things done. I am looking forward to all the challenges and choices that I will have to make in California.

Today while doing chores, I walked alot slower than usual and looked directly into people's eyes as they passed me on the street. I spent more time in the stores conducting long conversations with the merchants, knowing that these next days will be the last time that I will have this opportunity to speak this beloved language. I don't want to give this up. I went to the library to return some films, and as I left, I started feeling melancholy, realizing that it will be a couple of months before I step inside the library again. It has become a part of my life. I will miss it. I started feeling homesick for Florence, and I haven't even left yet. I know that Florence is the place for me, but I also know that I need to be back in California to refresh myself, catch up on American everything.....politics, technology, news....and to stock up on all the things that I can't get in Florence, like anti-persperant, PowerBars, cold cream and vitamin pills. Things I can't live without.

Tanti Auguri per un Felice Anno Nuovo

Grazie, Dio per l'anno scorso che Tu mi hai dato. Era davvero un dei più belli anni della mia vita, ricco, pieno delle sorprese impreviste, dei passioni...pieno dei nuovi amici, pieno dei cambiamenti drastici ma belli. Sono diventata una cittadina italiana dopo aver scoperto i miei radici. Ho realizzato molti sogni. Ho trovato una nuova casa bellissima che mi ama tantissimo, una nuova città, un nuovo paese, e un bel lavoro fantastisco in bici. Tanti belle cose sono sucesse, anche se c'erano momenti dificili, triste e brutti. Sono contenta, però sono un po stanca. L'anno prossimo, spero di trovare meno di eccitazione, un certo equilibrio, e sopratutto...un amore vera nella vita.

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Thank you, God for this last year that you gave me. It was truly one of the most beautiful years of my life, rich, filled with unexpected surprises, full of passion, full of new friends, filled with drastic but beautiful changes. I became an Italian citizen after having discovered my roots. I realized many dreams that I didn't even realize were dreams. I found a new and beautiful home that I love, a new city, a new country, a new and wonderful job working on my bike. So many beautiful things have happened, even though there were some difficult, sad and brutal moments. I am happy, but a little tired. Next year I hope to find a balance between serenity and excitement, work and play. And more than anything else, love..

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This was a year in which I listened closely to my heart. It was a year in which I ventured completely out of my comfort zone and released myself from the colorful and exotic weeds of days gone by. Weeds can be such beautiful plants and while holding me secure in their company, they were also keeping me from growing and from being true to myself. And from realizing my dreams.
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There were some frightening and solitary moments. But my passion and ability to visualize my dreams have thrust me forward. There is a price to pay for everything.

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In spite of the rain, the fireworks and concerts went on. Thousands of people crowded the city streets to bring in the New Year. As I walked through the euphoric crowds, my mind journeyed through flashbacks of so many New Years Eves spent at Times Square. It’s hard to believe that Piazza della Signoria is my new Times Square. It’s hard to believe that tonight I was watching fireworks exploding against the backdrop of Palazzo Vecchio, my new town hall, with the orchestra of Maestro Lanzetta playing under the magnificent Loggia dei Lanzi. What a climatic and fitting way to end this year of realizing my dream of living in Italy. Tears flooded my eyes, but I did not try to hide it. It was a New Years Eve to remember forever.

My Tuscan Christmas

Last year I spent my first Italian Christmas close to my ancestral roots in the south where I felt most comfortable...in Naples at the home of Giancarlo and with Maria's family who lives in Ischia. It was there in Lacco Ameno, Ischia, only months before, where I miraculously discovered the home and birthplace of my immigrating great grandparents, and the 150 year-old birth documents that enabled me to become a dual American/Italian citizen a few months later.

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The Christmas culture of the south is unique and completely different than anywhere else in in Italy and it was specifically these southern traditions that were handed down through the generations to my family. It is a dramatic, vivid, elaborate tradition of physical, ornamental and spiritual expression, brought to emotionally elevated levels. The overall cultural differences between Northern and Southern Italy can be clearly discerned just through an observation of how Christmas is celebrated. As my family dispersed out of NYC over the last several years, these traditions were lost. I had craved the feeling of celebrating Christmas again the way I knew it. Last year going to Ischia and Naples I found it once again. It was a trip back into the Christmas's of my past and it evoked a million different nostalgias and memories of the traditions that were familiar to me as a child.

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This year I wanted to experience Christmas here in Florence, because this is where I have chosen to live my life in Italy. It started with the Vigilia on Christmas Eve, which I attended at the Basilica di Santa Maria del Fiori . For 2 hours before midnight, the congregation stood silent in the enormous cathedral observing the solemn Gregorian Chanting of the bishop and his priests, as we all awaited the birth at Christ at Midnight. When midnight struck, the priests delivered a statue of the Christ child and stood it up in the front of the church, rather than laying Him down in his crib, which was curious. The church bells resounded and lasted for minutes.
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As compared to the Vigilia in the south, it was more abstract and solemn. There was no presepie or ornamentation. It was emotionally subdued. Most everyone wore brown or black. The dampness of the basilica left me with a bone-piercing chill and the magnitude of its size made me feel like an observer rather than a participant. Rather than rubbing shoulders with the person crammed next to me in a wooden pew, we were separated by aluminum folding chairs which made me feel a little distant from the congregation.
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Midnight mass was solemn, recited in Latin and the Bishop's sermon was hard to understand because his voice echoed multiple times off the infinite walls, serving to muffle his original words. It was exhilirating and exhalting to experience Midnight Mass at the Duomo.
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It was raining as I left the Basilica at 1.30AM. I wrapped a plastic bag around my saddle and rode back to my apartment in the quiet stillness of Christmas morning. There was not a soul on the streets.
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Christmas Day On Christmas morning I awoke to the sound of bells chiming from every church in Florence. I looked out the window to see that all the snow had melted and it was a cloudy day in Florence. I packed up all the gifts and the Scudieri panettone that I had bought for Nicola's family, got on my bike and headed for the train station, where I boarded a train to Siena. The landscape looked different today, a little more surreal, wrapped in a cloudy mist that I could observe from the windows of the train as it transversed the Tuscan countryside.
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Awaiting me at the train station was Nicola, Cosimo and Costanza. We drove through the backroads of Siena until we came to an ancient isolated country villa which dated back to the 15th century. There we spent a typical Tuscan Christmas day, mostly in the kitchen, feasting on Nicoletta's lasagne, cinghiale and an abbondanza of vegetables and deserts to keep me warm for days to come. The children loved the gifts I brought and opened them with sparkling eyes. After dinner we took a long walk through the countryside until it got dark. We returned to the villa for Nicola's tiramisu and then I took the train back to Florence.
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It was a great Christmas.

Baccalà...A Christmas Treat

My grandmother used to buy it in stiff, salted sheets in the summer and she stored it in large baskets in the basement where it would await the holidays. It was the cheapest fish you could buy, but today it has become a refined delicacy. What a tradition! On December 22nd, grandma would start soaking the baccalà so that it would be ready to cook on Christmas Eve. She preparted the fish in a great big pot with a soupy sauce consisting of tomatoes, garlic, olive oil, black olives, parsely and peperoncino. This we would eat on Christmas Eve along with an abbondanza of at least 10 other varieties of fish including shrimp, frutti di mare, crabs, clams, mussels, scungelli and stuffed calamari. This tradition is still the way Christmas Eve is celebrated in many parts of Italy, but especially in the south.

In Tuscany, baccalà has become more popular over the years, but it wasn't always that way. Here in Tuscany, fish is comparatively unpopular, due to our inland geography. But the one fish that has stood the test of time is baccalà. In the old days, the only way to transport fish to Tuscany without spoiling it, was to salt it. That's why baccalà is just about the only fish that has taken on a tradition here in Tuscany. On Fridays, baccalà is eaten in Tuscany with beans or potatoes.

But all over Italy, baccalà is asscociated with Christmas Eve. As a kid, I did not care for baccalà because it had a tough texture and even after soaking it for days, it was still quite salty and dried out. Today while I was in the Sant'Ambrogio market, I wandered through the bancarelle (merchant stalls) to see what looked different and fresh. I started talking with one of the merchants, Umberto, who sells great salami, fresh eggs and crispy bread. He was the only merchant who was selling baccalà and he had enough to feed all of Florence. I remember as a kid there was only one kind of baccalà. But now there are four. Dried with the spine, dried without the spine, already soaked with the spine and already soaked without the spine. I couldn't understand why the baccala with the spine cost more than without the spine. Umberto explained that it's the same concept as Bistecca Fiorentina....it's better with the bone, and therefore it costs more! Theoretically it's a sharp pricing philosophy, but I won't pay more to find bones in my fish! So, I bought some bright white already soaked baccalà without the bone. I took it home and bought some parsely and made the best baccala that I ever had. I am surprised that this fish is not more popular. Here's what it looked like when it was ready to eat! Some crispy Tuscan bread, a little Christmas music, and I was in heaven.

Christmas Concert at Basilica di San Marco

The feeling of Christmas is straordiaria in Florence. The snow has added a glorious, heavenly feel to this magnificent city. Lights and snow everywhere, the echo of Christmas hymns emanating from every church that I pass, church bells ringing constantly, chestnuts roasting on street corners, music playing everywhere, a brisk cold snap in the air. The bars are filled with people keeping warm with caffè and cappuncino. Baccala, panetone, struffoli for sale everywhere. The streets packed with a feeling of joy and anticipation and sensation the likes of which I haven't felt since pre-2001 New York. And even better.

This morning I went to the piazza to see how my bike was surving the weather. It was covered with snow and a sheet of ice covered my saddle. I cracked off the ice, dusted off the snow, and all bundled up, I enjoyed the cold ride to the market, where I bought artichokes, clementines, and broccoli rape.

This evening I rode to Piazza San Marco where I attended a spectacular Christmas Concert at the Basilica, which was packed. Good thing I got there early. The church was quite cold, but thanks to several heat lamps that were added, it gradually warmed up. The program included a rich variety of Christmas music sung by the church's choir, a solo soprano and tenor, and included classic Latin hymns, a selection of Neopolitan Christmas Carols which were hot, Florentine pop Carols, and Italian Gospel Music....what a unique blend of vivacious energy! The night was topped off by a playful group of little girls who sang and danced and lifted everyone's spirits even higher.

More Snow and a Wedding

More Snow......Last night it snowed so heavily that my cycling team had to cancel our annual Christmas Dinner, which was supposed to take place in the hills north of Florence. While it was a disappointment, it gave me the chance to meet up with my friend Roberto for dinner right here in my neighborhood on the spur of the moment. We walked to the piazza as the snow fell onto the cobblestones, lighting up everyone's spirits and making Florence sparkle like I have never seen it before.

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I was lucky to experience the rare opportunity of witnessing snow falling on Florence....especially during the height of the Christmas season. It was spectacular to watch the flakes falling at night, beneath the millions of tiny Christmas lights that are sprinkled high over the streets.

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The instant that I opened my eyes this morning I darted out of bed to open my window to see the snow that had fallen last night. Awaiting me was a magical winter wonderland in Florence that I never thought I would see. I dressed up quickly and spent the day walking for miles and miles, observing every possible inch of Florence under the snow. I am glad that I did, because knowing how rare it is to snow in Florence, it could melt just as fast, and I did not want to miss it, as it could be all gone tomorrow.
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The Little Old Man in the Market .....The market was vibrant today, being the last Saturday market before Christmas! There were merchants who came from as far as Naples and Sicily, selling their specialty foods. I spent alot of time talking with the Napoletans, and bought some frisselle, mozzarella di buffala, salcissa and Auricchio provolone, and got some great recipes from them. While talking to one of the ortolane (vegetable merchants), a short old Florentine man noticed my English accent and he started asking me questions about America and President Obama. He was very energetic and talkative and he was easily over 80 years old. He was carrying an old leather attache case that seemed to be full. He asked me if I had a minute, and opened up his attache case to show me the long letter that he had proudly written to Obama regarding his Nobel Peace Award. He told me that he has spent the last few weeks writing the letter, but that now he needs to have the letter translated into English. He was so cute!! He wanted to know if I would be interested in helping him to translate the letter. I told him that I would be glad to try! I gave him my phone number and I hope that he doesn't lose it, because I am really curious to see what he wrote! His little old wife and daughter were so happy that he finally found someone to help him with the translation. I sure hope to hear from him.

A Surprise Wedding! Then, after going to a spin class (of which I was the only participant) on Borgo Pinti, I passed a hidden 13th century convent and church, the Convento Santa Maria Maddalena dei Pazzi that is set behind a wall which makes it very unnoticable. You could pass it and not even realize it is there....Like so many other amazing finds in Florence! I've never had a chance to go in, and decided that this would be the perfect time. I was taken by surprise as I opened up the gigantic 13th century door, to see that the church was being prepared for an imminent wedding. The organ was playing and a tenor and baritone were practising the Ave Maria. I was struck by the beauty of this church, which was very different than most of the other churches I've seen in Florence, more ornate and not as grey and cold.The overall style is Florentine baroque, which is much more colorful and ornate, but more uniquely, included a mixture of styles representative of the 13th, 14th 15th and 16th centuries..Several altars were designed by Botticelli, Perugino, Ghirlandaio, Lorenzo di Credi e Raffaellino del Garbo. After admiring the art, the church started filling up with wedding guests, who all wore the same thing....black or mink coats, black dresses, black stockings and black boots. As I observed, I got more excited to see the bride, so I waited and eventually stayed for the whole Mass. It was a beautiful and very uplifting celebration. I can't believe what an emotional whimp I am.....I cried even though the bride is a complete stranger. I think my tears fell partly because I'm just so happy to be in Florence, being blessed by so many spontaneous and unexpected joys that I seem to find everywhere.

Back to the Library..... After the Mass I headed for the library where I exchanged some films and then went to its caffeteria which has a knock-out view of the Duomo, where I sipped a cup of ciocolatta calda con panna. I am not really a hot-chocolate lover, but Italian hot chocolate is to die for.....pure melted chocolate topped with a deep layer of the lightest whipped cream I've ever had. It was cold outside....only 21 degrees. I gazed out of the window with the Duomo directly in front of me, feeling the winter spirit in a way that I haven't felt in years.Walking home with the streets all lit up for Christmas, feeling the energy of the holidays in the air, was a great feeling of joy. For dinner I made artichokes and bruschetta, while watching a very funny Christmas film that takes place in Napoli on Christmas Eve.

First Snow in Florence

Florence has been waiting for this for years. It doesn't happen often. This evening I witnessed my first snowfall in Florence. After an evening cooking with Roberto, we opened the living room window to look at the Duomo, and it was snowing!

Silent, in the night it started to fall, transforming everything. Florence stopped and became still, quiet, peaceful. It was as if time had stopped. Everything slowed down. The snow continued to fall. As I was went to bed it was still snowing and as I closed my eyes, I felt the same way that a child feels when waiting for Santa Claus. The anticipation, the dreams of waking up to a winter wonderland the next day.

Lucia Ducci... Political Scientist, Teacher, Author

Lucia Ducci is one of the first people who touched my life when I first came to Florence as a student in September 2008. Besides being my language tutor, she has been a great coach and supporter.

Tonight I was proud to attend the presentation of Lucia's recently published book, L'Unita Debole which was given at Palazzo Strozzi by the "Gabinetto Scientifico Letterario". Lucia's book represents the results of her 3 year research study that examines the political and social condition of Italy, and it's relationsip with the U.S. shortly after the Risorgimento, as seen through the eyes of George Perkins Marsh, the American Ambassador to Italy during Florence's brief reign as capital of Italy. Through her discovery and interpretation of private letters and documents, Lucia filled in a piece of missing history through the authorship of her book. It was an enlightening experience for me to learn how book presentations are given in Italy and to learn about the difficulties that Italy faced in the years following its unification in 1864.

The presentation took place in a mangificent hisortically singificant library and was presented by an elite panel of political scientists, historians and professors who eloquently and fervently discussed various significant aspects and perspectives of Lucia's book. I was very proud to be at this presentation because it helped me to understand Lucia more profoundly, and I think our language lessons and friendship will be all that more better because I admire Lucia even more now than I did before.

Visiting the Medico Sportivo

Today I went to Soffiano, a suburb of Florence, to the Medico Sportivo, where I took the annual physical exam that is required to renew my racing license for the 2010 cycling season. The test includes a physical exam, a drug test and a stress test. I was glad to get this over with. It seemed like just yesterday that I first joined my race team and had my first exam. That was a whole year ago. Hard to believe.

A Christmas Concert with an American Friend

This was a fun evening getting into the Christmas spirit with Roberto, who is also a private student and common admirer of Lucia, my language tutor, who introduced us at an event that she organzied for her students last week. Roberto, who lives in Massachusetts, works in Florence several months a year. After meeting for an aperitivo at Natalino, we strolled across the Arno to Piazza Poggi and climbed the winding road up to Pizzale Michelangelo and Chiesa di San Salvatore del Monte where we saw a Christmas concert sung by a female choir. A cool mist covered the city and the feeling of Christmas is starting to fill the air. We walked to Ristorante La Giostra, a cozy, candle-lit restaurant in my neighborhood which I have admired from the outside. The conversation and food was excellent. The waiter decanted our bottle of Barolo with a unique, rapid, swirling technique that I had never seen before. It was refreshing to connect with a fellow American and to share our perspectives on living in Italy.

Treasures in My Backyard

What a brisk, sunny, buzzingly beautiful day. The streets were alive with conversation, local couples stolling slowly, merchants looking happy...there was a big smile in the air. My neighborhood feels more intimate than usual. One of the things that I enjoy about Florence is how its personality constantly changes with the seasons. Right now it feels cozy and happy and very non-touristy. I like it this way. Locals are out Christmas shopping, arm-in-arm, gazing in boutique windows, taking a caffè and just enjoying the Christmas ambience that is all around the city today. We're all wearing scarves, hats and boots, but the cold doesn't seem so cold when the sun is shining and the smell of roasted chestnuts fills the fresh air!

While absorbing this energizing spirit in the air, I was on my way to exchange some films at the library, when it occured to me that right now would be the perfect time to visit the museum "Firenze com'Era" which I've been wanting to see. I pass by it all the time, but never went in. I am waiting for just the right time to finally absorb each museum here in Florence, but have been wanting to do it spontaneously. The museum was open and empty, so I had the museum curators all to myself, and after answering some of my questions, they ended up taking me on a private tour.

This museum is particularly interesting to me because it demonstrates what Florence looked like as it evolved from Roman times, through Medieval times, to the Renaissance, to the present. It houses a striking collection of city maps, paintings, photographs and a model of what the city looked like in Roman times. I was particularly struck at the old 1472 painting of Florence which shows the infrastructure of the city as it existed 600 years ago. It's amazing to be able to see all of the main piazzas and monuments as they existed then, and to even be able to see my street and building and what it looked like back then, when the city walls and towers still existed. The city, before motorized traffic was much cleaner then, the Arno looked more blue, and the homes more quaint. The rest of the museum shows roadmaps and city plans developed by Giovanni Poggi after the Risorgimento. I feel richer and more attatched to my city after having observed a bit more of its history and how the infrastructure evolved over the centuries. I feel more like it really is mine.
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Then I went to the library to exchange some books and films. This library is open until midnight. The terrace on the top floor has a stunning view of the duomo and has a caffeteria/bar where you can sip a hot chocolate or have an aperitivo in the evening while listening to a jazz trio. As I was browsing through some films, a presentation was just begining in the adjacent room which I stayed to watch. Then I borrowed some Italian films and books, and went out on the terrace where I did some reading with the very inspirational panorama of the Duomo in the background.

Getting My Library Card

This morning I met Massimo for a caffè at Così, the buzzingest pasticerria in my neighborhood. The scent of pastries emanating from their ovens attracts passers-by from blocks away. I pass here day in, day out, and find it hard to resist the temptation to grab a quick caffè while on the run.

Massimo is a native Florentine who is seeking to improve his English, and we connected through a language exchange program. We are helping each other with our individual language goals. As we explored topics of common interest, we got talking about local language resources and he asked me if I had been to the Biblioteca delle Oblate, a library right around the corner from me, which I've passed by a million times but never went in.

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How do I explain this negligence? Florence has become the backdrop of my life. I have spent this past year of my life establishing the fundamentals of a whole new way of life, adapting to my new culutre. I can only experience the myriad treasures around me a little at a time. In the meantime, to be here, to know it's here, to be inspired by its energy, has been enough to plant me. As I start my second year here, I find myself at a new stage of my developing life in Florence, all ready to examine the contents of this paradise that I have found. ....And here I go.

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Massimo led the way to the library, where he took me for a tour of this gem that is hidden among the now-usual palatial facades of the streets that surround me. He then brought me to the desk where I applied for my library card. The library was originally a 13th century convent which was recently restored. Underground are tunnels that lead from the convent to the adjacent Santa Maria Nuova Hospital. In these tunnels, Leonardo da Vinci conducted medical research. The structure is historically rich, yet it houses a contemporary collection.

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The three levels include a floor dedicated to multimedia, where one can borrow CD's, movies and DVD's, and use their wireless internet and computers. There, I was particularly pleased to browse through their collection of Italian films which I will certainly be taking advantage of. Fascinated I was, to browse through their assortment of American music CD's. The ground floor houses a history collection dating from the Risorgimento and the top floor is dedicated to a children's collection. It also houses a section dedicated to opera that was also pleasing. Equally rich are its collections of art and literature.

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This library was a real find for me. The interior courtyard's peaceful garden is a perfect place to read or study, but the 3rd floor loggia clearly offers the most silent, dramatic vantage point of the Duomo. As you approach the outdoor loggia, you are hit with an unexpected, striking close-up view of the Duomo which dominates the atmosphere, creating a powerful sense of inspiration, rendering this the ultimate spot in Florence to read a book, study, sip a caffè and gaze at the Duomo while listening to it's bells....a constant reminder that I am lucky to call this place my home.

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For my first selection, I borrowed a classic Italian neorealistic film "L'Oro di Napoli", a real treasure, and watched it tonight at home, in a corner of my living room, where I can gaze out of the window to look at the Duomo and take in the inspiration that it always gives me.